How Much Do UK Clothing Manufacturers Charge to Make Samples?

When you’re starting a clothing brand in the UK, one of the first hurdles you’ll face is getting samples made. And if there’s one question I hear more than any other from clothing brand start-ups, it’s “How much will my samples cost?”

It’s a great question – and one that deserves a thorough answer because sampling costs can make or break your start-up budget if you’re not prepared.

After 35 years in the fashion industry and helping countless brands find the right UK manufacturers, I’ve seen it all when it comes to sampling!

Let me walk you through everything you need to know about sampling costs, so you can budget accordingly and avoid any nasty surprises.

Why UK Manufacturers Charge for Samples

First things first – you are going to have to pay to get your samples made in the UK. Whereas overseas factories might offer to make your samples for free, and then offset the sampling costs against production, UK factories don’t work like that.

Many manufacturers have been burnt in the past by brands who used them for sampling but then took production overseas to save money. This practice has made UK manufacturers understandably cautious.

I’ve seen it happen countless times – a brand gets beautiful samples made in the UK, then disappears with the patterns to produce in Asia at lower costs. This isn’t just disappointing for the manufacturer who invested time and expertise; it’s damaging to the UK manufacturing industry as a whole.

So don’t expect free samples. If a manufacturer offers “free” sampling, the cost is almost certainly hidden somewhere else – usually in higher minimum order quantities or inflated production prices.

How Much Can You Expect to Pay for Samples?

Samples typically cost 2–3 times the final production cost. This is because sampling involves significantly more work and preparation than bulk manufacturing.

When a manufacturer makes your sample, they’re essentially doing development work. They’re figuring out:

• How to translate your vision into reality
• How to construct your garment efficiently
• What challenges your design presents
• What an accurate manufacturing cost should be

And unlike when it comes to making bulk production, there’s no economy of scale with sampling. It’s a time-consuming process.

But believe me, this isn’t a step you want to skip!

Sample Costs Breakdown: What You’re Actually Paying For

There are several different stages in the sampling process, some or all of which might be carried out by the actual manufacturer that is going to make the final bulk production:

Pattern Cutting

Unless you already have your own pattern, you’ll need a pattern cutter to make one for you. Pattern cutters typically charge £25–£50 per hour, depending on experience and location. London-based pattern cutters generally charge at the higher end. Good pattern cutters in the UK are highly skilled and can be hard to find. If you know what goes into making a pattern, you’ll appreciate why it costs so much!

Example pattern cutting costs:

Shirt £50-100
Dress £100 – £300
Tailored jacket £200 – £500
Leggings £30-100

These are very rough ballpark figures, as it the cost of your pattern will depend on:

• How complex your designs are
• How clear your instructions are
• Whether you’re providing a similar garment as reference
• If you need multiple sizes developed

Initial Sample / Prototype

Once your pattern is ready, the manufacturer will make the initial sample. This involves creating a garment to assess fit, style, and overall design. Typically, an inexpensive, alternative fabric is used to the bulk fabric, and this stage helps identify construction issues, fit concerns, or major design changes needed. It’s an essential first step to ensure your vision aligns with practical execution.

Some brands choose to work with an independent sample maker initially, before giving their brief to the factory. Freelance sample makers usually charge between £20 and £45 per hour.

Fitting Stage

After the first sample is made, a fitting session takes place. You’ll carefully check the garment on a model, ensuring the fit, comfort, style, and functionality. Adjustments are noted and clearly communicated to the pattern maker. Complex designs or unclear instructions will result in multiple fitting sessions and increased costs, which is why it’s important to have someone skilled involved in this stage.

Pre-Production (Gold Seal) Sample

Regardless of who made your earlier samples, the manufacturer producing your bulk order must create a pre-production (gold seal) sample. This is the final and critical sample stage before production begins. The gold seal sample is the definitive standard for production and must be thoroughly checked and signed off. Any deviation during production from this sample can indicate a quality issue.

Typical Sample Costs by Garment Type

Asking how much samples cost is a bit like asking how long a piece of string is – it all depends!
Take this as a very rough guide as to what you might expect to pay for samples (excluding pattern costs) that are made in the UK:

T-shirt or simple top: £30-£100+
Blouse or shirt: £60-£150+
Simple dress: £80-£200+
Hoodie or sweatshirt: £80-£200+
Tailored jacket: £120-£300+
Coat or outerwear: £150-£400+

Remember, these are just ballpark figures. The actual cost will depend on design complexity, fabric choice, and the specific manufacturer you work with. Agree a sample cost upfront and avoid making unnecessary changes otherwise you’ll end up with a higher bill than you were expecting!

Choosing the Right Sample Maker

Brand owners often ask me, “Is it better to get my samples made by an individual or by the factory that will make the final production?” The answer to this is complex and multifaceted, depending on many things including the type of garment, your budget, how much hand-holding you want, the complexity of your garment, the machinery required, and how quickly you need the sample. When I work with my clients in the British Brand Accelerator, we handpick the best sample maker for them based on all of these factors.
Here are your options:

Freelance Sample Machinists

This would be an individual, often working from home, with one or two machines.
Cost: £20-£45 per hour
Pros: Often the most affordable option; flexible; personal service
Cons: May have limited equipment; might not handle pattern cutting; capacity constraints
Best for: Simple designs; testing out ideas; tight budgets

Sample Studio

A dedicated sampling set-up with several staff and machines. Might also make patterns.
Cost: £25-£50 per hour
Pros: Dedicated to sampling; better equipment; more capacity; no MOQ
Cons: More expensive; may have minimum charges
Best for: More complex designs; brands needing faster turnaround

CMT (Cut, Make, Trim) Factories

The typical garment manufacturer in the UK is CMT – meaning that you supply all of the raw materials and they cut the fabric and make the garment for you. May have a patterncutter inhouse but often they don’t.
Cost: £25-£50 per hour or 2-3x production price
Pros: Can transition directly to production; full manufacturing capabilities
Cons: Sampling may not be their priority
Best for: Brands ready to move into production; testing production capabilities; accurate production cost

Full Service Manufacturers

Offer an end-to-end solution, including sourcing fabrics and making patterns for you.
Cost: 2-3x production price plus extra charges for fabric sourcing etc May absorb sample cost if order is big enough.
Pros: Comprehensive service including design, pattern cutting, sampling, and production
Cons: Less common in the UK; MOQs are higher; Most expensive option; Lack of transparency
Best for: Bigger brand with large budgets who want convenience and full service.

Can you skip the sample stage and go straight to production?

Let me share a cautionary tale about skipping samples. I often speak with brand owners who are disappointed with the production a manufacturer has made for them. When I dig into this a bit further, it’s often because they have skipped out the pre-production sample stage thinking that they’ll save time and money. A massive mistake! Without a confirmed pre-production sample made by the factory that will manufacture the final order, all manner of issues can occur due to misinterpretation.

The lesson? Never skip the pre-production sample! That “saved” money could cost your entire production run.

How Many Samples Will You Need?

For most garments, expect to go through 2-3 samples before reaching production. Complex designs might require more iterations.

This is normal and should be budgeted for. Even experienced designers rarely get everything perfect on the first try. Each sample helps refine the design, fit, and construction methods.

Tips to Save Money on Sampling Costs

1. Provide a Comprehensive Tech Pack

One of the most effective ways to reduce sampling costs is to provide a comprehensive tech pack. A tech pack is essentially a blueprint for your garment that includes all specifications, measurements, materials, and construction details. A good tech pack dramatically reduces the chance of miscommunication and the need for multiple samples. It gives the manufacturer clear instructions and leaves little room for interpretation.

Use the Make it British Tech Pack Template

2. Don’t Keep Changing Your Mind

Each change means additional costs. Try to finalise your design before starting the sampling process.

3. Consider Simplified Construction

Complex details like multiple pockets, intricate seaming, and special finishes all add to sampling costs. Consider if these elements are essential to your design.

4. Build Relationships

Developing a good relationship with your manufacturer can lead to more favourable pricing over time. Loyalty matters in UK manufacturing.

5. Be Realistic About Timelines

Rush jobs cost more. Plan ahead and give manufacturers reasonable timeframes.

How I Can Help You Navigate the Sampling Process

At Make it British, I don’t make samples myself, but I can help you find the right UK manufacturers and pattern cutters for your specific needs. With 35 years in the industry, I’ve built relationships with reliable suppliers across the UK.

Through my British Brand Accelerator programme and Get Set for Manufacturing course, I guide small businesses through the entire development process, helping you:

• Find the right manufacturing partners
• Understand realistic costs and timelines
• Develop effective tech packs
• Navigate the sampling process efficiently
• Transition successfully from sampling to production

Final thoughts on getting clothing samples made in the UK

Sampling is an investment in your product’s quality and your brand’s reputation. While it might be tempting to cut corners to save money, remember that samples are your opportunity to perfect your product before committing to production.

UK manufacturing offers exceptional quality and ethical production practices. The higher sampling costs compared to overseas options reflect the fair wages, skilled craftsmanship, and attention to detail that make British-made products special.

By understanding the true costs involved and planning accordingly, you can navigate the sampling process successfully and create products you’re proud to put your name on.

Have questions about finding the right UK manufacturer for your samples? Feel free to reach out – helping brands connect with the perfect production partners is what I do best.